When I woke up, I turned over and looked at my clock and it said it was 6 am. I couldn't believe i woke up at six! I decided to get out of bed, I went over to my computer and checked the surf as I usually did. I saw that the waves are going to be great so I put on my bathingsuit and sweat pants and then a sweat 셔츠 on. I grabbed my wetsuit out of the colset and went downstairs and ate breakfast. Alice was in the 부엌, 주방 when I walked down.
저기요 Addi, Whatcha doing up this early? she ask.
Oh, just the usual surfing all day. I told her.
I ate and then left for the 차고 got my bike and board and headed out. Once I got to the 바닷가, 비치 the waves were amazing. I went and layed my bag and towel 다음 to the lifeguard tower and then I put my wetsuit on and headed out. I surfed for what seemed like a 분 but it was really lunch time-ish because the sun was right above me. I was getting hungry and tired and the waves seemed to be getting bigger and bigger. I saw the most perfect wave and I started paddling and then it lifted me up and i was about to dropp into it right when my nose of the board went under water in other words it pearled. I fell off and got punded 의해 the wave when it broke on me. The wave pushed me into a rock under water and my shoulder nailed into the rock so hard it almost knocked the breathe out of me and it tore my wetsuit open. Not only was my wetsuit tore but my board was also borken. I popped up and saw a wave about to brake on 상단, 맨 위로 of me so I suck in a big breathe and went under water. I popped up again and notice that the lifeguard on 육지, 쇼 어 was looking my way, and before I knew it I was pushed under 의해 another wave. I tried swimming under the wave as it broke and it work somewhat that is. When I came up I wasn't in the breaking zone anymore which was great and then I noticed a helicoper above me and someone coming down from it. When they got down they yelled:
I'm with the United Stated Coast Guard, I'm here to help you. He said.
He put out his hand and I took it. He hooked me up into a 마구, 하네스 and then the helicopter started lifting us up. We were almost to the 상단, 맨 위로 and in the door of the helicopter and then the lifty thing just jerked us to a stop and then my 마구, 하네스 broke and I almost fell out until the guy that had went to get me in the water caught me 의해 my hand. I was hanging in the sky 의해 his hand holding me up. He took of his mask and I saw his face it was Max!
Help.. I yelled to him
I wont let go, I promise. Max told me tightening his grip on my hand.
I was scared to death, I didn't know what to do.My shoulder was hurting from hanging and then I thought about Max's shoulder had to hurt 더 많이 than mine because he was supporting all of my weight. We hung there for what seemed like forever and soon I saw the ground beneath us and a bunch of people too. The helicopter stopped right before we hit the ground. Then when all the people caught me right as Max let go. I didn't know who they were but they carried me to the 구급차 and then I ask about Max.
Is Max okay? I ask to the guy carring me.
I don't know but I'll tell ya once I know. He said.
I held my arm/shoulder it hurt so bad. Max ended up getting into the helicopter with me.
Max. I said going for a hug.
당신 okay? He ask.
Yeah i'm fine, you? I ask.
I don't know it hurts like crap. He told me.